In the heart of Milan is the quiet area known as Guastalla, located not far from the vibrant Porta Romana neighborhood, lies a hidden gem that whispers tales of bygone eras with a mysterious allure. Tucked away on Via della Guastalla, amidst the bustling energy of the city, stands the enigmatic doorway of I Satiri di Via della Guastalla. This famed door, steeped in history and intrigue, has captivated passersby for generations.

One of my favorite pastimes is exploring different neighborhoods of Milan. I’d much rather leave the house early and go on foot to my next appointment than take the bus or metro. When the weather permits, walking is one of the best ways to get around Milan. And it’s the best way to discover new and unusual parts of the city.

Seemingly bizarre and out of context, the door’s ominous appearance draws you in as you approach it. Standing out against the backdrop of modernity, it is a threshold to another era. Located in Via della Guastalla 15, the entryway is decorated with two towering Satyrs alongside Adam and Eve, supported by two little figures astride a sea lion with a mermaid’s tail, all sculpted in pure white marble. It is a tribute to Milan’s diverse blend of history and eclectic architecture.

This charming doorway isn’t original to Milan but belonged to an eighteenth-century Neapolitan villa, which had been demolished. Little is known about the origin of the original palace, but the arched doorway was given new life by architect Luigi Maria Caneva, who moved it to Via della Guastalla 15, Milan, to adorn the entrance of the new building he built in the 1930’s, presumably for the Generale Immobiliare company.

The upper frame is adorned with the Satyrs or Fauns guarding the entryway. Classically portrayed as a man with goat legs, they are the legendary creatures who accompanied Dionysus and Pan, two iconic figures of Greek mythology, symbolizing nature’s vitality and human revelry. Dionysus, the god of wine and ecstasy, embodies life’s pleasures and liberation, while Pan, the god of the wild, represents untamed nature and primal instincts. Together, they celebrate the harmonious bond between humanity and the natural world.

Perched on pedestals bearing inscriptions, Adam and Eve modestly hide themselves with fig leaves, one hand supporting the entry arch. “Aqua vivimus,” which means “We live by water,” is inscribed at Eve’s feet, while “Ut vivas vigila,” which means “Stay vigilant to live,” is inscribed at Adam’s feet.

Today, the building houses offices and residences, but regardless of what lies beyond, the door of I Satiri di Via della Guastalla serves as a reminder of Milan’s storied past and its ever-evolving present.

Copyright © Celia Abernethy 2024 – All rights reserved.